The Living God of Braj - Places and Temples in Vrindavan Mathura

The Living God of Braj - Places and Temples to Discover

The task of covering all the important landmarks associated with the Krishna legend in the land of Braj proved to be a stupendous one, especially since Krishna devotees tend to ascribe a sense of divinity even to the sand particles of the region suggesting that the black particles represented Krishna and the white, Radha.

Mathura, which is situated on the highway called Shershah Suri Marg, about 154 km from Delhi. As one approaches Mathura, from a distance of about 6- 8 km, one can see the flame-shaped dome of the Janmabhumi temple or the marble pavilion (birth-place of Shri Krishna) against the backdrop of the three domes of a mosque.

The temple complex described as the Janmabhumi marks the place where Krishna, the eighth son of Vasudev and Devaki, is said to have been born in prison on the eighth day of the waning moon in the month of Bhadrapad (August- September) in Dwaparyug (5000 B.C.). The base of the mosque was, according to the foreign traveler, once the plinth of the temple of Keshav Dev, reputed to be a most imposing temple until it was destroyed by Aurangzeb to be replaced by the mosque as it exists today. The underground cellar behind the marble pavilion is an old construction and is stated to be the prison cell where Devaki was imprisoned at the time of the birth of Krishna.

There are four temples of Shiva on the four sides of Mathura: Bhuteshwar which is not far away from Janmabhumi on the western side, Pingleshwar on the east, Rangeshwar on the south and Gokaran Nath on the north. The last-mentioned is a seated figure of a giant with enormous eyes, long hair, beard and moustache.

The presence of Shiva temples on the four sides of Mathura has earned Shiva the nickname of watchman of Mathura. Mathura was not only the city of the most magnificent Vaishnav temples but also Jain temples and Buddha Viharas. The frequent Muslim conquests of the region, starting at the time of Mahmud Ghaznavi and continuing until the time of Aurangzeb, subjected the city to constant ravages.

The present generation of temples was probably constructed on a low profile so as to minimise their attraction to invaders. Most of the temples that are famous in Mathura, as elsewhere in Braj, are associated with Krishna as the presiding deity, and are often associated with a supernatural phenomenon.

Dwarkadheesh is the most important temple in Mathura. (The literal meaning would be the Lord of Dwarka.) The temple is not only the oldest but also the most venerated of all the temples in Mathura.

The temple was founded in 1815 by Gokulpati Singh, a treasurer in the court of Scindias of Gwalior. It is approached by a richly carved gateway with a steep flight of steps opening onto a square courtyard. The main temple has a large covered courtyard, with walls painted with episodes from Krishna's life. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple is covered by a half-curved dome, more like the ceiling of an oriental palace.

The inner courtyard of the temple has paintings of Dwarkadheesh and Krishna Leela painted at various places. Some of the popular ones show Krishna sitting in front of Surdas listening to his poetry, Krishna as the two-body-one-soul motif, depicting the concept of divine love between Radha and Krishna and Krishna as Dwarkadheesh. The temple is dedicated to the followers of Vallabhacharya Pushtisampradaya (sect) who continue to be administrators of the temple.

Vrindavan: The importance of Vrindavan as the sensitive heart of Braj has been stated earlier. Suffice it to say that it is the land of Vrinda (the other name of Shri Radha) who is also the presiding deity of Vrindavan. It may be recalled that Shri Radha did not leave Vrindavan, when Krishna left for Mathura and later on for Dwarka. The present Vrindavan is situated on the western bank of the river Yamuna, which almost surrounds the city in a semi-circular arch on three sides. Coming from Delhi, a small road near Chhatikra takes a left turn for Vrindavan which is 6.5 km from the turning. The other main road to Vrindavan is from Mathura.

The entire road to Vrindavan from this point is lined with temples. Some of the important ones are on the left side of the road, such as the temple of Pagalbaba in white marble, and the Jaipur temple in pale sandstone. On the right side of the road is the temple of Rama Krishna Mission. Near the municipal barrier is the temple of Gaudiasampradaya (Gaudiamath) with five conical towers.

Vrindavan is reported to be a city of approximately five thousand temples. It would be difficult to cover all of these. Some of the important ones were constructed in the sixteenth century during the reign of Akbar. The temples built during this period set the pace for the revival of Krishnaism and the glory of Vrindavan.
Gopinath: The temple dating back to the same period as Govind Dev, or even earlier, was built by one of the chieftains of Raja Mansingh. the builder of the Govind Dev temple. It is in a dilapidated condition with much of the original construction either destroyed or having fallen down. The temple was restored partly by a rich businessman of Bengal, Nand Kumar Ghose, who also helped in the construction of a new Madan Mohan temple.

Jugalkishore Temple: Built in red sandstone, the temple has a large nave about 7-1/2 metres square. The entrance is from the door facing east. The main doorway has an interesting relief work of Krishna lifting Govardhan on his little finger.

Vishramghat: Walking down to the Yamuna river, the most important place is Vishramghat, so named because Krishna and Balram rested here, after slaying King Kans and his wrestlers.
The archway at Vishramghat is the place where the Arti of the River Yamuna is performed in the early morning and in the evening. Under the arch, the rulers of Benares and Datia were weighed against precious metals which were then given away in charity. Besides the Vishramghat, the river-bank for about three kilometres is studded with ghats that have been demolished and reconstructed several times. An important landmark is the slender tower on the right side of the Vishramghat. This is called Satiburj. The tower, originally of a much greater height, was partially damaged during the reign of Aurangzeb. On the whole, a walk along the Yamuna takes one through one of the most picturesque areas in Mathura which still has the flavour of medieval times.

There are several temples in this area, which have been erected over the last 200 years and belong to different sects. The outstanding ones are the temples of Kankali Devi, Mahavidya Devi, and the Ramji temple with the footprints of Dhruv, stated to have been installed by Bajranabh.

Madhuvan: About 10 km south-west of Mathura, we come to Madhuvan, which serves as a link between the times of Shri Ram of the Tretayug and Shri Krishna of the Dwaparyug. The town of Madhupur was supposedly established by Shatrughan (brother of Shri Ram) after killing the demon Madhu. Later on Madhupur changed its name to Mathura and shifted towards the river-bank where it exists today.
The place is also famous for the spot where Dhruv meditated at the age of five years and was rewarded with divine blessings. For his unswerving devotion, Dhruv was to be remembered as the steadfast northern polar star which provides direction to travelers on land and sea.

Govardhan: About 20 km west of Madhuvan is Govardhan. The name has been made familiar by paintings and sculptures depicting Krishna lifting the pyramidal hill on his little finger. In real life, Govardhan with a 22 km circumference is a hilly range running in a south-easterly direction. A winding road encircles Govardhan and is the favoured route of countless devotees who annually perform the parikrama (circumambulation) of Govardhan. The 22 km hilly range has been traditionally venerated by millions of devotees from all over the country. So profound is the belief that no piece of stone is removed from the range. According to Adivarah Purana, even the mere touch of Govardhan would help atone the worst of sins, thus enabling a person to attain salvation.

Mansiganga: It is essentially a water reservoir extending over a large area and projecting out on the north-western end, giving the impression that it was a river. It is surrounded on all sides by bathing ghats. On the whole, the scene is reminiscent of any Hindu religious centre by a riverside. It is most picturesque from the western end, against the backdrop of the royal pavilions of the house of Bharatpur. The temple of Giriraj is under renovation at present. When completed it would be the centrepiece of attraction clearly visible from anywhere around Mansiganga.

Kusumsarovar: On the road from Govardhan to Radhakund, the skyline presents a breathtaking landscape. The place had been the chosen spot of Shri Radha for collecting flowers and performing ras. Hence the name Kusumsarovar. Later on, it was selected by Bajranabh, to arrange for a reading of the Shrimad Bhagvat so that Shri Krishna could be recalled in person, to help identify the important places of his times. At present the 130 sq metres of artificial lake on its western side is occupied by the pavilions of the house of Bharatpur. The main and the most imposing one is that of Raja Surajmal, the founder of the Bharatpur dynasty. It is flanked on either side by two smaller pavilions, almost identical in shape, belonging to Rani Hansiya and Rani Kishori, the two queens of Raja Surajmal. The canopy over the main pavilion has paintings depicting episodes of the life of Krishna as also of Raja Surajmal in court. In spite of poor maintenance, the paintings have still managed to retain their original colour and beauty.

Radhakund and Shyamkund: Near Kusumsarovar are two ponds, both of which are amongst many such places rediscovered by Shri Chaitanya. The two ponds were referred to as Gauri and Kali lakes until Shri Chaitanya expounded their origin referring to episodes from the life of Radha and Krishna. The story concerns the killing of Arishtasur (demon with bull's head) by Shri Krishna. Kans apparently knew that the places in and around Govardhan served as a rendezvous for the divine lovers. He chose Arishtasur, the demon with the strength of a bull, to kill Krishna. Krishna was performing ras with Radha and the gopis when Arishtasur attacked them with the fury of a hurricane.

Sankrikhor: This is a narrow passage between two natural parts of Brahma hills. Beyond it is Ghevarvan, which used to be a dense forest and a favourite place for the sporting leela of Radha and Krishna. In the not-too-distant past, a devotee named Shri Kishori Ali had claimed to have had the personal vision of Kishoriji (Radha) in this van. The samadhi of this devotee is located near Shri Krishnakund in Ghevarvan. The van continues to attract sadhus and devotees, committed to the worship of Shriji (Radha).

Pilipokhar: Situated at the north-western end of Barsana, is the largest pond surrounded by Pilu trees. The place was a favourite spot of Shri Radha whenever she wanted to seek solitude. The name Pilipokhar or yellow pond is attributed to the legend in which the water of the lake is claimed to have turned yellow, after Radha, who used yellow sandalwood paste, had taken a bath in the pond.
Premsarovar:44 About 6 km from Barsana is the pond where Krishna, Radha, and the gopis had indulged in a variety of playful sports. The tank is provided with flights of steps all round and is surrounded by green trees on all sides. Being not much frequented by visitors, it is a suitable place for meditation.

Nandgaon: This place is about 6 km from Barsana and is located on a hill associated by legend with Shiva. In view of the special relationship between the celestial couple, Radha and Krishna, these two villages too acquired a special significance which is locally respected even today. Thus, a male visitor from Nandgaon to Barsana, it is claimed, can walk into any household and would be accorded the courtesy due to a son-in-law.

Temple of Nandbaba: The temple dedicated to Nandbaba on top of the hill, with its two towers (shikhars), commands a view of the Mathura valley. One has to climb a winding narrow passage of 116 steps to reach the main entrance to the temple. The temple built in a style not seen in Vrindavan and Barsana is not more than two hundred years old. However, the icons of Krishna and Balram are stated to be very old. The images of Nand and Yashoda are of more recent origin. The temple has a large open nave used by the devotees for group singing or studying religious books. On the whole, the rustling wind, the sandalwood incense scented air, the occasional ringing of the bells, provide an atmosphere of serenity and devotion.
Nandeshwar: The courtyard of the temple has an important and old shrine, that of Nandeshwar. It is said that Lord Shiva wanted to see the infant Krishna. However, mother Yashoda got a shock, seeing Shiva's face covered with ashes and snakes encircling his neck. She did not comply with the wishes of Shiva, stating that the child Krishna.

Pavansarovar: As the name indicates, Krishna may have brought his herd of cows to drink water here. It must have been a beautiful lake with well laid-out ghats, now in a state of neglect. It is supposed to be one of the four largest lakes in Braj. The other three are Chand- sarovar at Parsoli near Govardhan, Premsarovar at Ghazipur near Barsana and Mansarovar across Yamuna near Mat.
Shri Sanatan Goswami, a devotee of Krishna and follower of Shri Chaitanya, had his meditation cottage on the bank of Pavansarovar. It is said that Sanatan Goswami was so absorbed in his devotional thought that he neglected to eat and Krishna himself appeared in front of him to serve food. Later when Sanatan Goswami realised the divine presence, he felt blessed.

Terkadamb: At a stone's throw from Nandgaon, on the northern side, is a grove of Kadamb trees, where Krishna used to rest before collecting the cows to return to Nandgaon in the evening. The place was also a chosen spot of Roop Goswami for meditation.

Udhavkyari: After leaving Vrindavan, Krishna sent his messenger Udhav to pacify the gopis who were heart-broken by their separation from him. Udhav returned to Lord Krishna and narrated the unending love for Krishna expressed by the gopis. This meeting took place at the spot now described as Udhavkyari, which is considered a very pious spot by the devotees.
Celestial footprints: The child Krishna supposedly left his footprints in Nandgaon on the stones, which would withstand the passage of time. It is stated in Shrimad Bhagvat that Akrur, the chariot driver of Kans, saw these footprints when he came to fetch Krishna and Balram.

Kamvan: About 8 km north of Nandgaon is Kamvan, one of the oldest and very famous places of pilgrimage. Kamvan has been described as the place where the wishes of mortals would always be fulfilled. It was the playground of the celestial lovers and their playmates. It is also described as old Vrindavan as the idol of Shri Vrinda when brought out of Vrindavan had been installed in this village. Mythologically the place also finds a mention in the Mahabharat, as being the location where the five Pandava brothers spent their year of exile in disguise.

Vimalkund: Approaching from Nandgaon, one passes by Vimalkund, on the south-west end of the township. At this spot Krishna had apparently performed ras with the many daughters of Vimal Raj, the king of Sindh (now in Pakistan). They found the fulfilment of their life-long desire to be with Krishna, hence the name Vimalkund. To devotees, one dip in the Vimalkund is equivalent to having at least seven dips in holy Pushkar. All round the tank are small temples devoted to various gods and goddesses. The place is also important for tantric worship.

Kameshwarmahadev Temple: A little beyond Vimalkund on the western side is the temple of Kameshwarmahadev, considered as one of the oldest Shiva temples. The Shivaling here is stated to have been installed by Bajranabh.
The other important temples of historic importance are of Vrinda- devi, Gokulchandramaji and Madan Mohan. The idols from the last two were removed from Braj to Bikaner during the period of Mughal repression. They were later installed at the present-day temples at Kamvan.

Brahmandghat: On the bank of the river Yamuna is located a spot associated with one of the most famous episodes in Krishna's childhood which figures in songs and poems of saints like Surdas. According to the story, on receiving a complaint that Krishna was seen eating mud from the banks of Yamuna, Yashoda bade her errant child Krishna to open his mouth, and was amazed to see the entire universe inside Krishna's mouth! This reconfirmed her thoughts that her Balgopal was no ordinary child. A small temple along the bank of Yamuna reminds visitors of the spot where this event supposedly took place.

Dauji: The temple of Dauji (familiar form of address for Baldev) has a unique history. Apparently the idol installed by Bajranabh escaped the wrath of Aurangzeb's forces who, mysteriously, could not locate it.

Raval: Shri Radha revealed herself at this place as an infant to Brishbhan when he was returning from the temple. The place has also a small temple of Shri Radha Rani.
Bhandirvan: About 18 km away, near a small village is the well, where Brahma performed the marriage of Radha to Krishna. The small temple by the side of the well has an idol of Krishna applying vermilion to the forehead of Shri Radha.

Mansarovar: This is one of the four large lakes known for their beautiful natural setting. The lake, located about 2 km from Vrindavan across the Yamuna, was the preferred place of Shri Hitharivansh for meditation. Mythologically this lake got its name from Shri Radha's feeling hurt at Krishna's neglect, and his attempts to placate her.

Birla Temple: Coming out of Mathura on the Vrindavan road, is the imposing Birla Temple, a recent structure built by the industrial house of the Birlas. The architectural style attempts a combination of red sandstone and the deep yellow colour on the motifs and the railings. An important feature of the temple is the tall stone pillar on which are inscribed all the 18 chapters of Shrimad Bhagvat Gita.

Akrurji Ka Temple: Akrur, the charioteer of Kans, was sent to Nandbaba to fetch Krishna and Balram to Mathura. Akrur had stopped at this spot to rest a while. When Akrur stepped into the river for ablution, he was able to see Sheshashai Vishnu in the water of the Yamuna.54 This made him confident of the victory of the celestial children he was carrying to the court of Kans.

Bhatrod Temple: Within a stone's throw from Akrur temple is the Bhatrod temple of Bihariji. In Shrimad Bhagvat, the place is identified with the episode where Krishna and his playmates were provided food by the wives of the Brahmins, when their husbands had refused to spare any food offerings for them.

Madan Mohan Temple: It is located on a high mound near Kalia Mardan, another important spot associated with Krishna leela. The idol of Madan Mohan, which was installed, in the temple, was given to Sanatan Goswami, a disciple of Shri Chaitanya. It was installed at a place overlooking the river Yamuna.

Bankebihari Temple: The idol of Shri Bankebihari was revealed to Swami Haridas. It is said that Haridas would pay obeisance to one particular spot in Nidhivan, before starting his day of singing and meditation. On persistent enquiries by his devotees as to the reason for his behaviour, he asked them to dig the place. 

Radharaman Temple: The temple, not too far away from Bihariji, and very near to Nidhivan, is well known for the anecdote about the miraculous revelation of the idol. It is said that Shri Gopal Bhatt, a devotee, had a black stone (shaped like Saligram) as the idol.

He had an earnest desire to see the stone taking a form so that he could dress the adored deity as he wanted to. This miracle did happen. One fine day, he found the stone taking the shape of Radharaman, as is seen today. The idol is in black stone and is the smallest amongst the famous ones in the land of Braj. The samadhis of Shri Gopal Bhatt and other disciples are located behind the temple but within the same compound. Ashtsakhi Temple: Radha had an entourage of eight companions who represented the eight forms of Shakti with which she revealed herself on the earth. There is only one temple, built in 1928, dedicated to the eight companions of Shri Radha. The temple is of pale pink sandstone and located very near the old Madan Mohan temple. It attracts devotees mostly from eastern India.

Krishna Balram Temple: This temple in white marble, built in 1975 A.D. by the International Society of Krishna's Consciousness (ISKCON), is located at Ramanreti in Vrindavan. The place was once a large tract of sand, and a favoured meeting place of Radha and Krishna. The temple was funded by donations from the followers of Shri A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupad, founder of ISKCON, who opened the temple in 1975. The three archways inside the temple have Shri Krishna Balram in the center, Shri Gaur Nitai on the left, and Radha Shyam Sunder on the right. The statue of Prabhupad located near the altar of Shri Gaur Nitai reflects a mood which is serene and sublime. The verandahs on the two sides have paintings depicting the life of Krishna. On the whole, the temple, though new, presents a highly vibrant atmosphere of devotion and grandeur.

Kesighat: The left bank of Yamuna presents one of the most picturesque sights in the whole of Braj. Starting from the Madan Mohan temple to the Yamunaghat, is a stretch of ornamented buildings. These buildings made of pink and red sandstone were constructed by the princely houses of northern India, notably, Bharatpur, Jaipur and Gwalior. Savai Raja Jai Singh, the Governor of Agra, operated from one of these buildings known as Jai Singh Ghera.
The ghat owes its name to the demon Kesi (meaning horse). 

Cheerghat: So named as Krishna collected the clothes of the young gopis bathing in the Yamuna and climbed onto a Kadamb tree nearby leaving them irate. The ladies after finishing the bath found their clothes hanging on the branches of the tree. They implored Krishna to let them have their clothes and thus save them from a sense of shame. Krishna joked with them but ultimately returned the clothes making them realise the danger of entering the river without clothes.

Kalidah: The spot is a reminder of the episode of a fight between Krishna and Kalia, a highly poisonous serpent that had a hideout in the Yamuna. The virulent poison from the snake killed many people as well as the cows that entered the Yamuna either to take a bath or a drink.

Brahmakund: It is located on the north-eastern end of the temple of Rangji. It was near this kund that Brahma realised the strength and divinity of Krishna as the Supreme God and so requested to be pardoned. In later years the kund was again to make history when Mirabai visited Vrindavan and sat on the steps of the kund in song and meditation. The temple of Mirabai with some of the original artefacts and idols is nearby.

Davanalkund: Once there was a widespread forest fire which threatened the life of the cows and calves that were grazing in the pastures. Krishna absorbed the fire in his body, and later cooled himself by bathing at this pond, called Davanalkund since then.

Van (Forests): Vrindavan, as the name suggests, was a van (forest). Mostly there were Tulsi groves and hence the name Vrinda which is also another name for Tulsi. Even now, practically in each house and temple, Tulsi is venerated, as mythologically Tulsi is also a consort of Krishna. Still there is many a van, though in diminutive size associated with Krishna. A mention has been made earlier of Nidhivan, the meditation abode of Swami Haridas. Others of importance are Sevakunj and Vanshivat.


Sevakunj: It is located adjacent to Nidhivan. The place gained importance during the time of Shri Hitharivansh whose claim to be a disciple of Shri Radha was universally accepted. It is said that he often had visions of both Radha and Krishna. Shri Hitharivansh had apparently been asked by the divine couple not to allow anyone to stay at Sevakunj at night so as not to disturb the privacy of the divine pair.

Vanshivat: The call of Krishna's flute from this place used to lead the gops and gopis to assemble for ras. The place was once full of Kadamb trees with plenty of birds and animals. Urbanisation has taken a toll resulting in the loss of fauna and flora. However, the magic of Krishna's flute is still remembered and he is venerated at the spot, where he used to stand and play on his magic flute.

Radhadamodar Temple: It was established by Srila Jeev Goswami, nephew of Roop and Sanatan Goswami. Damodar is another name of Krishna. The name of the temple is associated with the episode when Yashoda desired to check the naughty child Krishna and tied him with a rope around his abdomen (udara).

Imlitala: Imli (tamarind) is a large tree. This is the tree under which Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu had apparently rested during his visit to Vrindavan and had participated in group devotional singing.
Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu on his visit to Braj stayed at Akrurghat. He was deeply moved by the spiritual environment of Braj and felt disturbed that Vrindavan, the abode of the divine couple, had turned into a deserted jungle. On his return to Neelanchal he solicited the help of two of his disciples, Roop and Sanatan Goswami, to go to Braj and revive its glory.